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Engineered wood flooring has the luxurious look and feel that makes hardwood floors so sought-after by homeowners but with a few important advantages. High on the list? Its affordability. Since its top layer is genuine wood complete with unique wood grains and textures, engineered wood looks nearly identical to solid hardwood, yet engineered hardwood flooring costs significantly less per square foot. What’s more, it’s one of the more DIY-friendly types of flooring to install—in some cases, it doesn’t even have to be glued or nailed down. Ahead, we explain how to install engineered hardwood flooring, including Home Decorators Collection engineered wood flooring, which is exclusive to The Home Depot.
What Is Engineered Hardwood Flooring?
This type of hardwood flooring consists of several layers of materials that are glued together. Unlike hardwood flooring, which is made of solid wood, engineered hardwood flooring consists of a core layer of plywood or fiberboard, a top layer of hardwood, and a backer layer that provides additional strength and moisture protection. The top layer, which is also called the wear layer, can range in thickness from 1 to 6 millimeters. The thicker the top layer, the more durable—and typically more expensive—the engineered hardwood flooring.
There are a few different ways to install engineered wood flooring: It can be floated over the subfloor, or glued, stapled, or nailed to the subfloor. The installation methods available to you will vary depending on the type of flooring planks you choose, and the type of subfloor you have. For instance, it’s common to use the floating method to install click-lock flooring because the boards essentially lock (or “click”) together and don’t need an adhesive or fastener to stay in place. Though tongue-and-groove floor boards also lock together, it’s common practice to glue the joints to keep them from moving when they are walked upon. Likewise, you can only employ the nail-down or staple-down installation method if you have a wood subfloor to which nails and stapes can fasten.
Pros and Cons of Engineered Hardwood Flooring
There are several advantages and disadvantages to consider when deciding whether engineered wood is the right flooring for your space.
Pros
- Its tongue-and-groove design makes it easy to install.
- No two planks have the same wood pattern, thanks to a natural wood top layer.
- It’s more affordable than solid hardwood.
- A wear layer provides greater scratch resistance than hardwood, making it more suitable for high-traffic areas.
- Engineered hardwood uses fewer trees than hardwood does, making it a more sustainable product.
Cons
- The wear layer limits how many times you can sand and refinish it.
- Engineered hardwood flooring has a shorter lifespan than solid hardwood.
Preparing to Install Engineered Hardwood
It will never be the case that you’ll come straight home from the home improvement center with boxes of engineered hardwood and begin laying the flooring—there will always be some preparation to do before you get to work. When planning your project, be sure to factor in at least 24 hours’ time to acclimate the wood to its new environment.
SUPPLIES
Home Decorators Collection engineered wood flooring
Carpenter’s pencil
Concrete patch or leveler
4-foot level
Notched trowel
Circular saw
Pry bar
Construction screws
Putty knife
Flooring underlayment
House wrap tape
Utility Knife
Tape measure
Step 1: Acclimate the flooring.
Like solid wood flooring and laminate hardwood flooring, engineered wood products are sensitive to moisture, alternately shrinking and expanding as temperatures and humidity levels fluctuate. Therefore, the first step in engineered hardwood installation is to bring in the boards, remove any packaging, and give your purchased flooring at least 24 hours to acclimate to the conditions of its new environment. While you may be anxious to get started laying the flooring, this step is crucial. Installing engineered hardwood before it’s had time to acclimate can cause the boards to buckle or gaps to form later on.
Step 2: Prepare the subfloor.
While you’re waiting for your boards to acclimate, you can tackle any necessary repairs to the subfloor, which should be smooth, level, and flat to ensure the new flooring lies flush against the subfloor after installation.
For a Concrete Subfloor
After removing any old flooring or carpeting, check the concrete subfloor for any damage or depressions.
- Use concrete patch to fill any cracks or holes in the subfloor, using a trowel to apply and level each repair.
- Next, check for uneven spots in the subfloor by laying a 4-foot level across the floor. Using a concrete patch and your trowel, level off any uneven areas, and check with your level to make sure the area is flat. For larger depressions, use a concrete leveler.
For a Wood Subfloor
Remove and replace any damaged sections of subfloor before installing the new flooring.
- Begin by marking out a square or rectangular-shaped area that covers the damaged section. Make sure the piece you mark out is supported on all sides by floor joists.
- Use a circular saw to remove the damaged flooring. Set the blade depth to match the thickness of the subfloor to avoid cutting into the joists.
- Pry out the cut section using a pry bar, then use that piece as a pattern to create a new piece of subfloor that matches its dimensions. After cutting the new subfloor, install it using screws or nails.
Step 3: Remove the baseboards.
As with other types of flooring, you’ll need to remove the baseboards by prying them off with a pry bar before installation. Take care not to damage the baseboards as you remove them because you’ll need to reinstall them after you’ve installed the flooring.
- Use a putty knife to cut a line between the caulk and the top of the baseboard.
- Insert the end of the pry bar between the baseboard and wall.
- Tap on the head of the pry bar with a hammer to wedge it between the baseboard and the wall, and then gently pull on the pry bar to separate the board from the wall.
- Slowly work your way down the wall a foot at a time, gently pulling each length of baseboard away as you go.
- Number each piece as you remove it so you will know where it goes when it’s time to reinstall the baseboard.
Step 4: Install underlayment.
Unless you’re using an engineered hardwood flooring product with pre-attached underlayment, you’ll need to install underlayment before installing the flooring. Underlayment serves several purposes. It functions as a vapor barrier, preventing moisture from reaching the subfloor and causing rot and mold growth. Underlayment also adds cushioning that makes the floor more comfortable to walk on, and functions as a sound barrier that prevents the floor from rubbing against the subfloor and creaking.
- Starting against one wall, roll out a strip of the underlayment to reach the other side of the room. Use a utility knife to cut the underlayment to length and to cut holes around obstacles, such as floor vents and plumbing pipes.
- Roll out the next strip of underlayment, butting it up against the first strip. Don’t overlap the strips of underlayment, as this will create an uneven surface. Use house wrap tape to join the seams together.
- Continue laying strips of underlayment and taping the seams until you’ve covered the entire room.
Step 5: Take measurements.
You’ll need to measure the room to determine how many rows of planks you’ll need for the installation and to ensure the first and last row of planks are a uniform width.
- Measure the width of the room, which is the measurement that’s perpendicular to the run of the hardwood, using a tape measure.
- Divide that measurement by the width of the hardwood planks. For example, if the width of the room is 102 inches and the width of planks is 10 inches, then you’ll have a total of 10 full rows with one 2-inch-wide plank at the far end of the room, which isn’t ideal visually.
- Regardless of which of the below methods you use, you’ll need to even out the rows. Use a table saw to rip cut a few inches off the first row of planks and a few inches off the final row. In the above scenario, you would cut 4 inches off both the first row and last row, so you end up with two rows of 6-inch boards on either end of the room.
Method 1: Floating Engineered Hardwood Flooring
This is the most common installation method for click-lock flooring. When installing floating engineered wood flooring, working around door jambs can be tricky. Use a speed square to measure around the jamb, then mark each board and use a jigsaw to cut it to fit into place.
SUPPLIES
Home Decorators Collection click-lock engineered wood flooring
Carpenter’s pencil
Flooring spacers
Large rubber mallet
Flooring adhesive
Circular saw or miter saw
Masking tape
Tapping block
Flooring pull bar
Table saw
Jigsaw
Speed square
Step 1: Set up the initial rows.
Begin in one corner of the room and work left to right to install the floors. Place the first plank so that the grooved side faces the wall. Use spacers around the edges of the room to create a 1/4-inch gap between the wall and the plank.
Step 2: Install the planks.
Apply flooring adhesive to the groove of each plank, then join each plank by inserting the tongue into the groove. Tap the boards together using the mallet and tapping block.
Pro tip: Before applying flooring adhesive, mock up the first three rows of planks. Doing so will make it easier to stagger the seams to create a natural look before you commit to the layout by applying glue.
If you’re installing Home Decorators Collection click-lock engineered wood flooring, there’s no need to use glue. Hold the second plank at a 45-degree angle and connect the tongue to the groove of the first plank, then drop the plank down to click it into place.
Cut the last board at the end of each row to length using a circular saw or miter saw, and use a flooring pull bar with a mallet to tap it into place. Use masking tape to hold the planks together while the glue dries.
The last row probably won’t be a perfect fit, so you’ll need to use a table saw to cut each plank in the last row to size.
Method 2: Glue-Down Engineered Hardwood Flooring
The glue-down installation method for engineered hardwood flooring is often used when your subfloor is concrete, or cannot accommodate being nailed or stapled. This mode of installation may also lead to less shifting and noise when you walk on it, especially compared to the floating installation method.
As you’re gluing engineered wood flooring, you may spill some glue on the surface of the boards as you work. If that’s the case, you can use mineral spirits and a clean soft cloth to wipe away glue before it dries.
SUPPLIES
Flooring adhesive
Notched trowel
Home Decorators Collection tongue and groove engineered wood flooring
Flooring spacers
Tapping block
Large rubber mallet
Flooring pull bar
Mineral spirits
Microfiber cloth
Carpenter’s pencil
Table saw
Step 1: Lay the flooring adhesive.
Starting in one corner of the room, use a notched trowel to lay enough glue, or flooring adhesive, for two rows of hardwood flooring. Keep in mind that the trowel size you use will depend on the type of flooring, so check the manufacturer’s recommendation before you start spreading.
Step 2: Install the first plank.
Beginning in one corner of the room, lay the first plank into place and then press it down firmly to make sure the glue adheres to the entire surface area of the board. Use floor spacers to maintain a 1/4-inch gap between the wall and the flooring.
Step 3: Install the second plank.
Install the next plank by inserting the tongue into the groove while holding the board up at about a 45-degree angle. Once inserted, press the board down into the glue. Tap each board tightly against the other using a tapping block and mallet to ensure there are no gaps between each plank. Use the floor pulling bar to tighten the boards at the end of each row flush to the adjoining board.
As with other installation types, make sure you stagger the seams as you’re installing each board.
Continue installing boards following this method, using weights to hold down any bowed planks and masking tape to prevent the flooring from moving as you’re installing it.
Pro tip: If you have the time, install the first three rows, then give them a full day to dry. This will give you a firm base to work against as you install the remainder of the floor.
Method 3: Staple-Down or Nail-Down Engineered Hardwood Flooring
You can only use the staple-down or nail-down method when installing engineered wood flooring over a wood subfloor. Use a flooring stapler for most engineered hardwood, and switch to a flooring nailer if the engineered hardwood is particularly thick or consists of a denser hardwood.
Whether you use a flooring stapler or flooring nailer, the process for installing hardwood flooring is the same.
SUPPLIES
Home Decorators Collection engineered wood flooring
Flooring spacers
Finish nailer or hammer and nail punch
Tapping block
Flooring pull bar
Large rubber mallet
Staple gun (if using)
Flooring nailer or flooring stapler
Carpenter’s pencil
Table saw
Step 1: Install the first row.
Lay down the first row of boards, using spacers to create the necessary 1/4-inch expansion gap between the wall and flooring. Secure the first row by top nailing them with finish nails at 6-inch intervals. You can use a finish nailer or a hammer and a nail punch. Make sure the nail heads are countersunk into the wood.
Step 2: Install the second row.
Add the second row, tapping each plank into place against the first row using the tapping block and mallet. Secure each plank by stapling it through the tongue with the staple gun or finish nailer at a 45-degree angle, again spacing each staple at 6-inch intervals. Set the depth adjuster so that the staple or nail heads are countersunk; otherwise, the next row of boards won’t fit flush against them. Use the flooring pull bar to pull the final board in the row flush against the adjoining board.
Step 3: Add the remaining rows.
Once you hit the third row of boards, you should have enough clearance from the wall to use a flooring nailer or stapler to attach the remaining rows until you reach the far end of the room.
Step 4: Install the last row.
Once you reach the other end of the room, you won’t have clearance to use the flooring or stapling nailer. Switch back to the stapler or a finish nailer to install and face-nail the last row or two.
FAQs
The glue-down method is the best option for installing hardwood flooring, especially over concrete subfloors, as it provides the most stability.
One of the best things about engineered hardwood flooring is that it’s DIY-friendly. Floating the floor tends to be the simplest installation option for DIYers, as it doesn’t require expensive specialized tools or excessive amounts of glue.
You’ll spend between $4.50 and $16 per square foot for engineered hardwood, depending on the brand, according to Angi. If you choose to hire someone to install it, you’ll pay an additional $3 to $6 per square foot.
Engineered hardwood floors last between 20 and 30 years, depending on the quality of the flooring, the amount of traffic it’s exposed to, and how well it’s maintained. Generally, a floor with a thicker wear layer will last the longest.
