We're up on the second floor now, and we're in the process of hanging up all the blueboard.
And closing in it.
And I thought we'd take a minute, and talk about, what's inside the walls and in the ceilings.
If you look at this partition, which is between my bathroom and the back hall.
Here, you see evidence of a door that was framed in.
In the original frame, back in 1897.
Look at how they trussed it there to carry the load from above.
You know, labor was cheap.
There was plentiful talent.
But let's get together with Greg Rockland, our architect, who is here today and we can talk a little bit about some of the very modern day appliances that are going in.
These recessed light kits.
They're low voltage, right?
Yes, Bob.
These are Lightolier low-voltage, miniature, wall washers.
And this is, runs on 12 volts, converted from 110 from this wire to the transformer.
So you feed it in.
I see.
You feed in regular 110 and then the little transformer converts it to a low voltage.
Right.
And this this allows allows us to make an extremely small fixture, which is very good in this kind of renovation work where we've got joint spacing.
We don't know what it's going to be like, and we're trying to get lighting at an even spacing and it gonna just have this lapasure 3 and a half inches that we have to get and we can space that out you can see fairly evenly.
So we've got six or eight of them.
And they can be focused, and you can, like if you had a collection of family photographs on the wall, you can aim right at each one, right.
That's right.
These things have a very good advantage.
They're called hot focus and that after you install the light and the trim, and you have the art on the walls, you could actually reach inside and adjust the bulb and the lens to get the light exactly where you want it.
I like that.
And it can be changed later on
That's great.
as you change your pictures.
Let's go inside the bathroom and look at some of the framing that been done in there.
Now, the ceiling in here has an the usual cornice treatment.
What's the story?
You got a set of closets coming in from California Closets.
They're pre-made and they're this height, they go to here.
OK.
They don't go any farther.
So you brought the ceiling down to accomadate those.
At the same time, we've taken that revealer that's gonna produce a runner all the way around the room architectural feature.
That's nice.
And then we have got more of the same lights in the ceiling here that can be focused in so that you can see your dark suits or whatever in there.
That's right.
And again, they're hot adjustable so once you get the closets, you can adjust them.
Then in the bathroom section you've framed in... what do you call it, a soffit?
But why have you used metal instead of wooden studs here?
Well, the only thing we're attaching to this is plasterboard.
Yeah.
And we don't have to nail any trim to it and by making out of metal it's very quick to do; you can keep it very straight.
Yeah.
You've got everything in here, you have got the hot air being delivered through here and you've got two more of these lighting units here so that you can aim down, and this of course will be a vanity area which I believe the shape of this reflects the shape down here, right?
That's correct.
At the counter, the counter will be the same kind of romboid shape.
What is in the chase back here?
Well, this is a little sensor that senses the temperature of the hot water coming up in this pipe.
This is the feed to the hot water side of your sink faucet.And
when the temperature goes down below a hundred degrees, this sends a signal to the basement, and the boiler fires again, and brings hot water up through this pipe up to this point.
We are bringing this place into the twenty-first century.
There's no doubt about it.
Of course we'll have another light underneath the mirror, right?
Underneath, underneath the medicine cabinet.
Sounds good.
And and then here what we've got is a pocket door so that we can close off the bath from the dressing area.
And to learn more about how these are installed let's go downstairs and find Bob Riley.
Hey, Riley!
Well that saw makes quick work out of that right?
Oh, it sure does, yeah!
This is steel and wood insert.
Right.
And this is all the components for our pocket door, right?
Yeah, this is the last stud of right now.
I just want to put a pilot hole in the top here.
Sure.
And we are standing in the entry way from the main hall downstairs, into the kitchen area and I guess the design cost are a pocket door in this location.
Yeah, it sure does.
Because we've got, well it's complex.
We've got a closet here, it's like a broom closet, and this will have a swinging door.
And we figured we didn't want a second swinging door into the hall because that ends up being left in the open position all the time.
And there's a nice expanse of wall here that would allow us to hang a big poster or something.
So, the pocket door is the answer.
And this a kit and the components are pretty basic, right?
Sure is.
Just a track on the top which we have already placed.
Yeah.
Put in place.
And then we have these metal studs.
They're going to create a cavity for the door to ride into.
Can I give you a hand?
You sure can.
Now this is a heavy duty frame, right?
This is, yes, this is a good frame.
That's the key to these pocket doors, is making sure you get a good, a good heavy frame with good hardware, which is what we've got here.
Yeah, 'cause there's nothing more frustrating than trying to fix a flimsy pocket door frame after the wallboard's already been put up.
OK.
And now where do these go?
This is the "in" piece, it's going right over here.
Got to get right up against that header.
Get the bottom first.
You've got to be pretty precise with even though it falls on the round rough carpentry.
Right we've already pre-cut this so that it is going in good and plum.
Alright, now how do you determine that the door line up perfectly with the outer edge of the wall here.
Well that's the most important part of the pocket door installation and what we've got we gonna use this template again.
Set it in here.
The template is just a ripped down piece of 2X4 that's the exact 28 inch width of the door.
Right, and this is the mock-up of how our trim is going to be exact exactly, and we want to be sure that we have a stop along that jamb over there.
Okay and so you've already put in some shims to make up the difference and this is a half-inch rubber stop that comes with the door kit, so this goes right here right?
Yes.
OK, I need a screw gun.
There you go.
Are you gonna go head and put that up there?
Yeah.
Okay.
This is the runner for the doors and this nut here is going to help us adjust the door to make it plum when we hang it.
And that's at finished stage, but right now we'll make sure we don't lose any of our hardware by keeping it up there along with the template.
Here you go
